To command the Outboard engine from the cookpit
Ecume de Mer "ICARE"
- Pic 1 -- Pic 2 -- Pic 3 -- Pic 4 -- Pic 5 -- Pic 6 -- Pic 7 -
Modification of chair PLASTIMO for engine outboard
Ecume de Mer "OLIVIA"
The problem with the engines outboard, it is that the propeller is often too high and too meadows of surface. The least wave makes leave the propeller water and makes howl the engine. I had to modify the chair of OLIVIA, which enabled me to descend the engine from 5cm and since that goes a little better. In fact, I have remake the part drink chair. Two plywood of 15 mm, grooved to pass the threaded rods stainless of 8 mm, assemblies with the adhesive poluyréthane and put being printed. Then to stiffen the whole, two plates of aluminum marinates of 6 mm, bolted on both sides plywood, beforehand varnished or passed to epoxy.
Chair Personalized for engine outbord
Ecume de Mer "BRIN D'ECUME" of Jean Michel.
Sliding chair wood/stainless, on rails of listening of Steam Generators fixed on the back table of Ecume De Mer.
Installation of an engine inbord Yanmar YS8
Ecume de Mer "BRIN D'ECUME" of Jean Michel.
Creation of the supports and installation of all the equipment necessary to the engine inboard .

To Install an Asymmetric Spinnaker Pole
Executed by Louis on her ecume de Mer "ANGELO II"
To realize a Lazy Bag
Here 2 pages from the number 46 of Voiles Magazines, to realize himself a Lazy-Bag.
Size of Ecume De Mer veils
Here two boards published by the Finot Architect group. The dimensions are to be checked with your veils or your rigging.
Releasable stay Installation
Xavier's pictures, écume de mer "UISCE BEATHA"
Head of mast Fixation over the deck Fixation under the deck Fixation on the hull

Watertightness shrouds fixations on the deck
From L'Amiral, Ecume de Mer "MOOD INDIGO".

To Return the halyard (the ropes) to the cookpit
From the Ecumeurs. (in PDF).
Principle Drawing OLIVIA    

To Change The crosstrees (or spreader) and to reinforce the mast
Ecume "OLIVIA"


Electric Rectifier for Outboard engine
Ecume de Mer COSSARD
OMC diagram - - OMC diagram (for adsl)
Solar Panel
Ecume de Mer "OLIVIA"
A solar panel in the scuttle of the front cabin, on the deck. It's not me which made the installation. It was here, whan i by my boat. One idea for those which have the intention to equip their boat.
Repair of the electric circuit 12V
Ecume De Mer "OLIVIA".

Deposit old table located in the berth coffin port side, under the bench of the cockpit. The cables 2x1,5mm²; flexible walk on in equipped located the each with dimensions one with the boat. The cables are brought back behind the électric control panel fixed on the tilted partition port side at the entry of the square. The passage of the cables between equipped and the partitions tilted are carried out under white plastic chutes of 40x20mm, fixed on the side frames in polyesther, and under the benches of the cockpit (with the top of the berths coffins).

Kitchen side (port side):

1 cable to the navigation light.
1 flat cable (2x0,75mm²) stuck under the gangway for lighting cooks.

Side bench (starboard) and passage by the WC:
1 cable for side-light
1 cables for fire of top
1 cables for the lighting of the WC and the front cabin.

For the lighting of the square:
1 flat cable (2x0,75mm2;) stuck and going up in the tilted angle of the partition and the roof, walking on in ceiling at the edge of the trap door of the roof, to the luminary fluo 1x8W.

By Jacques on him Ecume BESBEQ.
J'ai :

* Posed my electric control panel de 4 connectors with fuses on the starboard side, on the panel of the the top of battery.
* I do a elecric connection of reference on the panel of the berth of the port side and by a sheath of 25 brought back the whole on the starboard side ( recovery of the old circuits towards the connector block of the WC ==> mast)
* Drawn an electrical supply network and from probe, log by the trunks starboards in a sheath of 20.

The amounts ot the 2 trunks close to the trunk with battery are hollow. Consequently i could make hold by setting the sheath.
While the amounts of the trunk located towards the refrigerator are reinforced. In this case, i passed by the itself and i suspended my sheath with standard fasteners.
To Install 2 batteries and a coupler
Document communicated by Philippe F. - écume "MOOD INDIGO " version Long Roof of 1976.

Here the diagram of installation carried out with two batteries and a coupler, on board a EDM equipped with an engine Volvo 2001 of 10CV.

Such an installation is essential for a boat been driven by a diesel engine which requires power with starting.
It thus makes it possible to put in parallel the two batteries to start. They are reloaded by the alternator by the intermediary of a distributor with non-return diode, which sends the load in the battery charged.
Once on the way, on a battery for the instruments, one keeps the other intact one for a later starting. In the same way in the event of failure or of destruction of a battery (that arrived to me following a breakdown of regulator on the alternator), there remains about it always one of available.

The circuit edge and the driving circuit are isolated by a circuit breaker.

The batteries are laid out in a tight trunk made out of plywood equipped with armed resin, placed and bolted in the trunk which is with the foot of the descent with starboard, therefore a low point, near the engine, which limits the length of the cables.

The cables which connect the two batteries between them (for -) and with the coupler (for +), as at the 2 boundaries of the starter have a section of 35mm2, with welded thimbles (essential to ensure the quality of the contacts because strong intensity).
One can make them make in a workshop of mechanic electrician of marine or car (agent Bosch, car distribution, etc...).

For some 4m of cable with 12 thimbles, that cost me some 100€ in 1996.

On the diagram, I represented the table, as well as the apparatuses, in the form of a single box to simplify the presentation.

All the ends of wire are galvanized. The ideal is all to connect by thimbles, more reliable than the dominos which can be loosened in time.

All the material: distributor for two batteries, coupler, circuit breaker is at the shipchandlers.

To Replace Electrical Panel
By L'Amiral, Ecume de Mer, Long Roof "MOOD INDIGO"
PIC 1 PIC 2 PIC 3  


Spinlock XAS et pulley flat deck
By Daniel, Ecume "OLIVIA"
Spinlock on the deck
By L'Amiral, Ecume de Mer "MOOD INDIGO".
sea safe raft support
To set the raft on the back transom, by Patrice on "Ventcontr Air"
to dry the ship's hold
By Noel on Hériona
To Replace Beam Supporting The Mast
By Louis on "ANGELO 2" (Italy) and by Hervé on "TANTAKA" (Martigues - France)
To Repair The Rudder
By Daniel, Ecume de Mer "WANDA" (Bretagne - France)
Pics on Wanda page
To set an anchor winch
By Jean-Michel on his Ecume de Mer "Brin d'Ecume"
Ecume de Mer Draught
By Paolo, Ecume de Mer "CIRCE II"
Draught in PDF
To Replace keel bolts and floors
By par Jean Michel R. on his Ecume "BRIN D'ECUME" version GTE of 1970.

My Ecume de Mer have 2 steel floor timbers (in UPN) in the funds.

I have to dismount a bolt of the skittle, it is in good condition, the cast iron is not even rusted on the other hand the nut was HS disassembling with the graver. It me A took 10 minutes to remove the bolt of dimension 60 X 12.

For the demounting of the bolts of skittle it is very simple:
- Demounting of the floors.
- Pulverization of releasing.
- To remove the nut (either key, or graver).
- To drive out the screw towards the outside of a blow of hammer more drives out pin (all comes with cement).
- Demounting of the existing floor timbers. They are in steel and are completely oxidized (above delow).

I did not find a screw of 14 with head milled in 14mm (too expensive special screws). I bought screws of 16 and I rectified the head (angle 90°).
For the floor timbers, I bought stainless, and I carried them out me even.
Price of the screws 25 euros, stainless at the breakage 30 euros, rods stainless 30 euros, total 85 euros.

Reinstallation of the new laminated floor timbers : Floors 1 and 2 - Floors 3 - Overall picture.

To replace the keel bolts
By Daniel, Ecume de Mer "WANDA" (Bretagne - France)
Repair of the deck
Opération which I carried out on my Ecume de Mer "OLIVIA".
For information, the bridge was completely délaminé, of the prow to the poop, while passing by the benches and the lids of the trunks...
Matérials :
- Drilling machine
- Drill of 6 with a thrust.
- Epoxy resin 7,5kg (with catalisor) of stratification tixotrope type EPOLAM 2010 de AXSON.
- Syringes of 50 ml with a large end (see it).
- dosing glass.
- 1 limps of gloves
- Rags
- paper to sand paper n°100.
- 1 roller of red PVC adhesive tape for masking.
- 1 brush brushes and of the detergent St Marc.
- 2 kg of white painting polyurethane Bi-component with thinner and catalisor, mark CASTELLANO (Marseilles).
- 1 round Brush to rechamplir of average size marks ROULOR.
- 1 Brush brushes rather broad of 50.
- 1 tube of black universal dye compatible with painting used.
- 1 kg of non-skid painting white INTERDECK of INTERNATIONNAL.
- 1 liter of acetone.
Repair of the deck : 3 days
Location zones délaminées while supporting with the foot or the hand and while tapping with the fingers (not délaminée zone: its dryness - délaminée zone: its deaf person).
Drilling diameter 6 mm of the higher skin only.
Slow injection of the epoxy resin to the syringe until refusal.
Make an attempt a little that the air present under the laminate left and to remake a resin supplement. One can pose a weight to press the laminate on foam in order to improve joining, but attention with the deformation of the deck.
To wipe the resin refusal before which does not dry on the deck.
To let harden. Sandpapering of the periphery of the holes and the possible run-outs.
Cementing with epoxy cement to let dry.
Sandpapering of the mastiquées zones.
Preparation of the deck : 1 days
Washing of the bridge to the brush brushes and the detergent St Marc.
Rinsing and to let well dry.
Disassembling of all possible upperworks.
Masking of the port-holes, winchs and other elements not dismounted with PVC adhesive tape, which does not leave adhesive after pulling up.
Setting in painting : 3 days
Preparation of painting:
I slightly tinted painting to break the white in order to obtain a gray beads very light, with an amount of black dye are equivalent to a grain and half of coffee in the pot of painting.
Taking away and mixture of an amount of painting tinted with sondiluant and its catalyst. This makes it possible to lose the minimum of painting, because once to mix with its catalisor, painting is not kept.

Application of painting:

Application of painting polyurethane Bi-component in 2 layers on the whole with the lacquerer (attention with the sun and the temperature of the support which accelerate the catch, and with moisture which subdues painting).
To use the round brush to make the inaccessible zone with the lacquerer.
I left before boat, to finish on the back. To let harden...
Attention not to reconsider the treated zones déja which started to harden. If not it is very to remake.
I have recommancer the same operation the lendemein.
Removal of rubant adhesive after durcicement of painting.

The non-skid one :

Application of a coat of white non-skid paint to the brush of 50 while following the non-skid one of the moulding of the existing bridge. I did not carry out a mascage with the adhesive tape. Your on your, one does not see the light guy zag that I could make.

Reinstallation of upperworks...


Map Table and many equipements
By Michel on his ecume "Carpe Diem"
the front berth amenagement
From Jean Michel R. on his Ecume "BRIN D'ECUME".
1) deposit front face of equipped existing disassemblings with all the supports.
2) using a slat veil to give the round-off of cutting on the front face to cut out the front face (jigsaw).
3) to produce a gauge out of paperboard of the rack to be realized To manufacture the rack to varnish it and stick it to the sikaflex (that avoids drillings). Possibly painting (I will do it).
Cabin Arrangement
From par Pierre F. on his Ecume "SOL 7" :
Cooks Arrangement
Carried by Pierre F. sur his Ecume de Mer "SOL 7" :
Opération carried by Philippe F. on his Ecume De Mer "MOOD INDIGO " Long Roof version of 1976.

The provision selected results from a personal choice to have

- a housing for a roller of paper towel to the top of the sink.
- a rack with intermediate separation with the top of the stove.
- a library being able to accomodate the format of the Nautical Instructions between stove and partition before side refrigerator.

All the indications correspond to this choice. I often found solutions progressively with the progress of the work. The found solutions are probably likely improvements.

Additional documents: gauges traced on kraft paper, sketch, photographs at various stages of advance.


- cleat SIPO of 50x10 (actually 48x10): 1 bar of 2,40m.
- cleat SIPO of 30x10 (28x10): 1 bar of 2,40m.- cleat SIPO of 20x10 (18x10): 1 bar of 2,40m.
- normal plywood of 10mm (to seek a rather reddish gasoline, which gives a beautiful aspect after varnish): 810x200mm, 520x190mm, 405x190mm, 402x215mm (the wire of wood in the direction of the strongest dimension), 200x165 mm (wire of wood in the direction of the 165mm).
- plywood of 15mm thickness (or 20mm), to make 2 holds of 30x20x15 and 20x20x15mm (I recovered in my falls!!).
- channel section out of white plastic of 10x12x10mm.
- Araldite.
- woodworking glue outside quality.
- paste with synthetic wood of suitable colour.
- screw brass head milled of 3x20mm and 3x25mm (not more than 3 for the screws of 20mm, to screw in the song of a plywood of 10mm without bursting it.
- brass points without head of 20mm (in fact, normal points of 20mm which one cuts the head).

The brass screws and bolts and points can be a little difficult to find, but between stores of do-it-yourself and upperworks, it is possible.


It is necessary to have a jigsaw with a fine cut blade (attention with the turns) or a saw to be cut out, a drilling machine with drills of 2, 3,5 and 6mm, plus the usual tools of which a drive out-point end to insert the points in plywood.

I made some errors in the course of road and sometimes found the solution then. Information which follows indicates the processes, sometimes reconstituted afterwards and which should limit the risks of error.

In particular the cheeks which must be skimped along bordered curve. To possibly recall a gauge, the carpenters use a compass blocked of which they make run the point along bordered, the pencil on the other connects ensuring the layout on the paperboard or plywood (for that, I bought a plastic compass for young children, without point in a hypermarket).

Another difficulty is consisted the installation and the joining of profiled out of U in a good position. I had not found the good solution for that, from where parallelisms imperfect with the partition side refrigerator, which obliged me to adjust the shelves with false-squares (attention the gauge of the shelves is such as I carried out them after fitting, from where the indication of angles with 90) where it is not completely the case.

I think that the best solution to stick them is to place the small plank of 520x190mm against the partition. It thus gives the exact position of plastic U on the edge of the block cooks. After drying of the adhesive, to make in the same way with the shelf of 810x200 while placing it in butted against the first stuck profile.

The remainder is not too difficult and requires only patience and care.

And now, with work!!!

1. To cut out and present the cheeks, to if required adjust them along bordered (the gauges are not perfect).

2. To cut the plastic profile to 0,19 and 0,20, to stick them to Araldite on the edges before and back of the block cook, as explained higher. In order to maintain them under pressure, I threaded the cheeks in their final position there and I fixed them in top with a hold out of paperboard.

3. To point and stick the cleats (see dimensions on gauges kraft) of 20x10, maintained in pressure with presses. It appears preferable to cut the heads right before the point is completely inserted: as the cutting pliers do not give a plane cut, the point leaves in skew to each blow. To finish the depression of the point to hunting nail and to insert it in plywood. A later stopping with the paste with wood will dissimulate it.

4. To cut out and adjust the two shelves. To cut a cleat of 20x10 to 0,79, to point it and stick to the back of the shelf of 0,81 like stiffener.
To set up the separation of housing at Sopalin (I screwed it and stuck) as well as small intermediate separation.
To record the level of the shelf before (spirit level), to determine the height of the cleat in the partition side refrigerator.
To cut and screw temporarily this cleat.

* For the assembly, in order to make the unit as rigid as possible, I planned to stick the shelves on the cleats and of visser/coller on the song of the cheeks the longitudinal cleats in frontage. With this intention, after tracing in place, boring a hole of 3,5mm in the cleat, then to mill the opening with a drill of 6mm held with the hand (the use of the drilling machine is almost unverifiable!).

5. To temporarily install the cheeks as well as the 2 shelves. To present the cleat of 50x10mm and to trace the cut (in theory 1,35m).

* To cut the cleats, I used the hacksaw which makes it possible to obtain a fine cut.

After having cut the cleat, to bore at each end 2 superimposed holes of 3,5mm, for the screws which will fix it in the song of the cheeks. I lowered this cleat compared to the lower plan of the shelf to dissimulate the side cleats which support the latter. To mill the entry of screw with the drill of 6mm. By presenting the cleat to mark then to bore the before-holes of 2mm in the song of each cheek.

To place a screw temporarily and to align the bottom of the cleat on the bottom of the cleats stuck on the cheeks and intended to receive the shelf with the top of the kitchen. To trace the alignment of the front cheek on the back face of the cleat and to bore the corresponding holes in the cleat then before-holes in the song of the cheek. To proceed in the same way with the separation of housing for the roller of essuis-all and intermediate separation.

To temporarily fix the cleat of frontage to trace the site of the hold of fixing in the partition side refrigerator.

To cut out in thick plywood (minimum 15mm) a hold of 48x20x15 (or more than 15 according to the availabilities). To screw temporarily in the partition side refrigerator (screw brass of 25mm) with the site marked previously (attention with the perpendicular conflicts of screw!). To fix the cleat of frontage temporarily.

To cut out the higher thrusts (trapezoid with 2 holes, to see gauges) in plywood of 10mm. They are intended to prevent the swing of the block forwards in the event of roll). To place in top of each cheek to fix it against the pad of against moulding. To mark the site of the holes, to bore small before-holes in the cheek and to fix temporarily.

To pose the shelf side partition refrigerator (shelf of 520mm).

To cut out in thick plywood a hold of 30x20x15mm (or more 15mm) and to temporarily screw it in the partition with the top of the shelf.

To present and trace a cleat of 50x10 (in theory with 530mm), to cut it, bore 2 milled holes of 3,5mm at each end like the precedent, to fix it temporarily.

To present and trace a cleat of 30x10 to finish the edge of the shelf (in theory 830mm). I placed it at 40mm at the top of the cleat of frontage already posed. A late remord led me to put between the two a cleat of 20x10, in particular to facilitate the unfolding of Sopalin who thus passes in a slit 10mm. Percer and to mill one 3,5mm at each end perforates, to bore the before-holes in the song of the cheeks. To fix temporarily.

Glance of the Master before disassembling, without forgetting to trace the sites to be stuck, which will not have to be varnished.

Sandpapering fine and varnished of the unit not assembled... what is easier all the same!

With the final assembly, I intend to stick, progressively assembly: the cleats of frontage which will be screwed and stuck, shelves on their cleats, in order to ensure a maximum rigidity of the unit.
I envisage to screw only the cleats and holds in the partition side refrigerator thus have the thrusts anti-swing, in order to be able to deposit the unit where necessary.


Sail in Holland
Documents proposed by Philippe F.
I lay out, of topo of a score of pages, but without photographs, to go to Holland and inside Holland except the north which I intend to visit this year. That usefully supplements the guides of navigation with practical information on routes, ports, manner o passing the locks (very many!) etc... I can send it all to "Ecumer" (Scummer) who would make the requst of it.
The Channel of Midday - (Le Canal du Midi)
Proposed by Daniel A .
Here a document which can help you to prepare navigation on the Channel of the South, historical channel connecting the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. (In French and in English).


Bottle Carrier and Cockpit Table
By Louis on his Ecume "ANGELO 2" (Italy)
Bottle Carrier and Cockpit Table
To Make Legs for Ecume de Mer
By Jacques (GESBEQ)
Here photographs and the statements which I could make of the crutches of the Ecume De Merd "Jonathan Livingston from Paimpol".

- 2 Tubes diameter 50mm which are embedded 1 octogonal base diameter 150mm.

- 1 1/2 ring in foot of the crutch of diameter 23mm and with 18mm of the base plate (to pass an end of tension).

- 1 head of crutch has 30mm head of crutch has 40mm of long a base plate with 60mm of the head of crutch is crossed by a nut of 10 lenght 150 + butterfly of M10.

- 1 reinforcement located at 490mm of the head of the crutch (on the level of the butterfly) dimension 40*350*40 in top 40*350*50 in bottom.

- the steps are triangles welded on to the crutch, all the 410mm with a step at 110mm and one reinforcement lower by 200mm.

Legs for GESBECQ
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 (PDF)

To Make a Cradle For Ecume de Mer
Proposed by Jean-Michel "BRIN D'ECUME"
Here, some photographs of the Cradle for my Ecume De Mer GTE (Big Draught).


Tricks, easy ways, ideas, a little very to improve, repair, regulate a problem... Communicate to me your ideas... They will make it possible to supplement this page.