Here 2 pages from the number 46 of Voiles Magazines, to realize himself a Lazy-Bag.

A solar panel in the scuttle of the front cabin, on the deck. It's not me which made the installation. It was here, whan i by my boat. One idea for those which have the intention to equip their boat.

Deposit old table located in the berth coffin port side, under the bench of the cockpit. The cables 2x1,5mm²; flexible walk on in equipped located the each with dimensions one with the boat. The cables are brought back behind the électric control panel fixed on the tilted partition port side at the entry of the square. The passage of the cables between equipped and the partitions tilted are carried out under white plastic chutes of 40x20mm, fixed on the side frames in polyesther, and under the benches of the cockpit (with the top of the berths coffins).


Kitchen side (port side):
1 cable to the navigation light.
1 flat cable (2x0,75mm²) stuck under the gangway for lighting cooks.

Side bench (starboard) and passage by the WC:
1 cable for side-light
1 cables for fire of top
1 cables for the lighting of the WC and the front cabin.

For the lighting of the square:
1 flat cable (2x0,75mm2;) stuck and going up in the tilted angle of the partition and the roof, walking on in ceiling at the edge of the trap door of the roof, to the luminary fluo 1x8W.

My Ecume de Mer have 2 steel floor timbers (in UPN) in the funds.

I have to dismount a bolt of the skittle, it is in good condition, the cast iron is not even rusted on the other hand the nut was HS disassembling with the graver. It me A took 10 minutes to remove the bolt of dimension 60 X 12.

For the demounting of the bolts of skittle it is very simple:
- Demounting of the floors.
- Pulverization of releasing.
- To remove the nut (either key, or graver).
- To drive out the screw towards the outside of a blow of hammer more drives out pin (all comes with cement).
- Demounting of the existing floor timbers. They are in steel and are completely oxidized (above delow).

I did not find a screw of 14 with head milled in 14mm (too expensive special screws). I bought screws of 16 and I rectified the head (angle 90°).
For the floor timbers, I bought stainless, and I carried them out me even.
Price of the screws 25 euros, stainless at the breakage 30 euros, rods stainless 30 euros, total 85 euros.

Reinstallation of the new laminated floor timbers : Floors 1 and 2 - Floors 3 - Overall picture.

The provision selected results from a personal choice to have

- a housing for a roller of paper towel to the top of the sink.
- a rack with intermediate separation with the top of the stove.
- a library being able to accomodate the format of the Nautical Instructions between stove and partition before side refrigerator.

All the indications correspond to this choice. I often found solutions progressively with the progress of the work. The found solutions are probably likely improvements.

Additional documents: gauges traced on kraft paper, sketch, photographs at various stages of advance.


1. MATÉRIALS :

- cleat SIPO of 50x10 (actually 48x10): 1 bar of 2,40m.
- cleat SIPO of 30x10 (28x10): 1 bar of 2,40m.- cleat SIPO of 20x10 (18x10): 1 bar of 2,40m.
- normal plywood of 10mm (to seek a rather reddish gasoline, which gives a beautiful aspect after varnish): 810x200mm, 520x190mm, 405x190mm, 402x215mm (the wire of wood in the direction of the strongest dimension), 200x165 mm (wire of wood in the direction of the 165mm).
- plywood of 15mm thickness (or 20mm), to make 2 holds of 30x20x15 and 20x20x15mm (I recovered in my falls!!).
- channel section out of white plastic of 10x12x10mm.
- Araldite.
- woodworking glue outside quality.
- paste with synthetic wood of suitable colour.
- screw brass head milled of 3x20mm and 3x25mm (not more than 3 for the screws of 20mm, to screw in the song of a plywood of 10mm without bursting it.
- brass points without head of 20mm (in fact, normal points of 20mm which one cuts the head).

The brass screws and bolts and points can be a little difficult to find, but between stores of do-it-yourself and upperworks, it is possible.


2. CUTTING AND ASSEMBLY:

It is necessary to have a jigsaw with a fine cut blade (attention with the turns) or a saw to be cut out, a drilling machine with drills of 2, 3,5 and 6mm, plus the usual tools of which a drive out-point end to insert the points in plywood.

I made some errors in the course of road and sometimes found the solution then. Information which follows indicates the processes, sometimes reconstituted afterwards and which should limit the risks of error.

In particular the cheeks which must be skimped along bordered curve. To possibly recall a gauge, the carpenters use a compass blocked of which they make run the point along bordered, the pencil on the other connects ensuring the layout on the paperboard or plywood (for that, I bought a plastic compass for young children, without point in a hypermarket).

Another difficulty is consisted the installation and the joining of profiled out of U in a good position. I had not found the good solution for that, from where parallelisms imperfect with the partition side refrigerator, which obliged me to adjust the shelves with false-squares (attention the gauge of the shelves is such as I carried out them after fitting, from where the indication of angles with 90) where it is not completely the case.

I think that the best solution to stick them is to place the small plank of 520x190mm against the partition. It thus gives the exact position of plastic U on the edge of the block cooks. After drying of the adhesive, to make in the same way with the shelf of 810x200 while placing it in butted against the first stuck profile.

The remainder is not too difficult and requires only patience and care.

And now, with work!!!

1. To cut out and present the cheeks, to if required adjust them along bordered (the gauges are not perfect).

2. To cut the plastic profile to 0,19 and 0,20, to stick them to Araldite on the edges before and back of the block cook, as explained higher. In order to maintain them under pressure, I threaded the cheeks in their final position there and I fixed them in top with a hold out of paperboard.

3. To point and stick the cleats (see dimensions on gauges kraft) of 20x10, maintained in pressure with presses. It appears preferable to cut the heads right before the point is completely inserted: as the cutting pliers do not give a plane cut, the point leaves in skew to each blow. To finish the depression of the point to hunting nail and to insert it in plywood. A later stopping with the paste with wood will dissimulate it.

4. To cut out and adjust the two shelves. To cut a cleat of 20x10 to 0,79, to point it and stick to the back of the shelf of 0,81 like stiffener.
To set up the separation of housing at Sopalin (I screwed it and stuck) as well as small intermediate separation.
To record the level of the shelf before (spirit level), to determine the height of the cleat in the partition side refrigerator.
To cut and screw temporarily this cleat.

* For the assembly, in order to make the unit as rigid as possible, I planned to stick the shelves on the cleats and of visser/coller on the song of the cheeks the longitudinal cleats in frontage. With this intention, after tracing in place, boring a hole of 3,5mm in the cleat, then to mill the opening with a drill of 6mm held with the hand (the use of the drilling machine is almost unverifiable!).

5. To temporarily install the cheeks as well as the 2 shelves. To present the cleat of 50x10mm and to trace the cut (in theory 1,35m).

* To cut the cleats, I used the hacksaw which makes it possible to obtain a fine cut.

After having cut the cleat, to bore at each end 2 superimposed holes of 3,5mm, for the screws which will fix it in the song of the cheeks. I lowered this cleat compared to the lower plan of the shelf to dissimulate the side cleats which support the latter. To mill the entry of screw with the drill of 6mm. By presenting the cleat to mark then to bore the before-holes of 2mm in the song of each cheek.

To place a screw temporarily and to align the bottom of the cleat on the bottom of the cleats stuck on the cheeks and intended to receive the shelf with the top of the kitchen. To trace the alignment of the front cheek on the back face of the cleat and to bore the corresponding holes in the cleat then before-holes in the song of the cheek. To proceed in the same way with the separation of housing for the roller of essuis-all and intermediate separation.

To temporarily fix the cleat of frontage to trace the site of the hold of fixing in the partition side refrigerator.

To cut out in thick plywood (minimum 15mm) a hold of 48x20x15 (or more than 15 according to the availabilities). To screw temporarily in the partition side refrigerator (screw brass of 25mm) with the site marked previously (attention with the perpendicular conflicts of screw!). To fix the cleat of frontage temporarily.

To cut out the higher thrusts (trapezoid with 2 holes, to see gauges) in plywood of 10mm. They are intended to prevent the swing of the block forwards in the event of roll). To place in top of each cheek to fix it against the pad of against moulding. To mark the site of the holes, to bore small before-holes in the cheek and to fix temporarily.

To pose the shelf side partition refrigerator (shelf of 520mm).

To cut out in thick plywood a hold of 30x20x15mm (or more 15mm) and to temporarily screw it in the partition with the top of the shelf.

To present and trace a cleat of 50x10 (in theory with 530mm), to cut it, bore 2 milled holes of 3,5mm at each end like the precedent, to fix it temporarily.

To present and trace a cleat of 30x10 to finish the edge of the shelf (in theory 830mm). I placed it at 40mm at the top of the cleat of frontage already posed. A late remord led me to put between the two a cleat of 20x10, in particular to facilitate the unfolding of Sopalin who thus passes in a slit 10mm. Percer and to mill one 3,5mm at each end perforates, to bore the before-holes in the song of the cheeks. To fix temporarily.

Glance of the Master before disassembling, without forgetting to trace the sites to be stuck, which will not have to be varnished.

Sandpapering fine and varnished of the unit not assembled... what is easier all the same!

With the final assembly, I intend to stick, progressively assembly: the cleats of frontage which will be screwed and stuck, shelves on their cleats, in order to ensure a maximum rigidity of the unit.
I envisage to screw only the cleats and holds in the partition side refrigerator thus have the thrusts anti-swing, in order to be able to deposit the unit where necessary.

I lay out, of topo of a score of pages, but without photographs, to go to Holland and inside Holland except the north which I intend to visit this year. That usefully supplements the guides of navigation with practical information on routes, ports, manner o passing the locks (very many!) etc... I can send it all to "Ecumer" (Scummer) who would make the requst of it.

Here a document which can help you to prepare navigation on the Channel of the South, historical channel connecting the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. (In French and in English).

Here photographs and the statements which I could make of the crutches of the Ecume De Merd "Jonathan Livingston from Paimpol".

- 2 Tubes diameter 50mm which are embedded 1 octogonal base diameter 150mm.

- 1 1/2 ring in foot of the crutch of diameter 23mm and with 18mm of the base plate (to pass an end of tension).

- 1 head of crutch has 30mm head of crutch has 40mm of long a base plate with 60mm of the head of crutch is crossed by a nut of 10 lenght 150 + butterfly of M10.

- 1 reinforcement located at 490mm of the head of the crutch (on the level of the butterfly) dimension 40*350*40 in top 40*350*50 in bottom.

- the steps are triangles welded on to the crutch, all the 410mm with a step at 110mm and one reinforcement lower by 200mm.

Here, some photographs of the Cradle for my Ecume De Mer GTE (Big Draught).